Saturday, July 29, 2017

France Sketchbook - Eiffel Tower Step-by-Step Watercolor Tutorial

Here's the tutorial I promised you about how I painted the sketch of the Eiffel Tower that I did on location in Paris...

I had sketched the tower lightly with pencil first to give myself a guide to follow. I was careful to use a center line, which helped me to keep it straight and symmetrical (or almost!) It was inked with my favorite sketching pen, the Platinum Carbon desk pen with extra-fine nib.

The lettering was done back in my studio with a pointed calligraphy pen and De Atramentis black ink. I left it to dry overnight before adding any paint to the paper, because I wanted to make sure it was perfectly dry and wouldn't run when I painted the sky.

Step 1 - Ink drawing

Since I had so much space on the sides of the page, I decided to add an inset border that would connect with the lettering to form a frame around the tower. I drew a guideline with pencil, then used a ruling pen to apply masking fluid in a straight, even line. It was very tricky getting the entire line to be the same width, and my line veered in a little bit on the right side, but I decided to just go for it and not worry about it.

Step 2 - Mask the border

Painting the sky:
I wet the paper and let it soak in for a few minutes, then painted the sky wet-in-wet with Cobalt Blue and Permanent Rose. The sky in my reference photo was a solid blue with a few insignificant clouds, but I decided to paint a sky that had a lot of action and color.

Step 3 - Paint sky and base wash on foreground

The foreground trees and lawn were given a wash of color using mixes of Sap Green, Cadmium Yellow Light, Yellow Ochre, Olive Green, and Cobalt Blue. While the trees on the right were still wet, I brushed in darker green shadows. I also painted a suggestion of the buildings beyond the tower but kept them very simple, so they wouldn't draw the eye too much to that area.


When the sky was bone dry, it was time to paint the tower. I had done a fairly detailed ink drawing, so it was easy to use a small brush and paint over it with a mixture of Burnt Sienna and Ultramarine Blue. I painted everything a light brown color first and let it dry, then went back in with a deep, rich brown in the shaded areas.

Step 4 - Paint the tower

Touches of blue and purple added variety and interest to the shadows on the first deck level.


Next it was time to tackle the foreground flowers. I started off with a base wash of light pinks, yellows, and greens.

Step 5 - Paint foreground trees and flowers

To indicate leafy texture on the trees, I mixed up some mid-value greens and painted them on with a "dancing brush". I used a size 4 round and touched it to the paper, twisting, turning, and lifting it randomly to make leaf-like strokes of paint. I softened some edges with a damp brush and dropped darker paint into the wet strokes here and there and let it blend.


To finish up the foreground, I added some shadows on the lawn and behind the trees on the right side. I painted the area behind the trees on the left to suggest more grassy lawn.

Step 6 - Final darks on foreground

After the initial base wash on the flowers had dried, I added darker values to give the plantings some depth.


The painting was finished. It was time to remove the masking on the border.

Step 7 - Remove masking

I chose a very simple pattern for the border. It makes a fairly solid line on the page, but it's made up of curved lines, which contrast with all the straight lines on tower's ironwork.

Step 8 - Draw border design

I like how the border helps to frame the tower and focus attention on the main subject of the sketch. The expanse of green lawn and the trees lead you in, and the lettering draws you up, accentuating the tower's height.

The only thing I left out of this picture was all the tourists sitting, walking, posing for pictures, and relaxing on the lawn. I intentionally kept the entire area empty, because, when I was sitting there on the grass, gazing up at the tower, drawing the intricate lattice work and marveling at its complexity and beauty, I felt as if I were the only one there. I was in my happy place, that alternate universe that I go to when I pick up a brush and paint. So this is a picture of the Eiffel Tower in my dreams, the way I remember it - just me and the tower and that big blue sky.

Sunday, July 23, 2017

France Sketchbook - Day 2 - Paris (continued)

(Read part I of  Day 2 here.)

After we left the Tuileries, we hopped on the bus and began to make our way to the Eiffel Tower. I wanted to see it up close and maybe do a little sketching, but the traffic in Paris that day was even worse than usual. There were all sorts of special events going over the weekend to promote Paris in its bid for the 2024 Olympic games. (Guess it worked; they were selected!) So, since sitting in traffic was such a big part of our experience in Paris, I decided to include it in my sketch of the Arc de Triomphe, which we passed along the way.

I had one little problem with my sketch; after I inked the lettering, I realized I had misspelled "Triomphe". It bothered me too much to leave it that way, so I painted a new banner on watercolor paper, cut it out, and glued it over the original one. I even added some embroidery floss fringe to the ends, just for fun. (I specialize in making lemonade out of lemons! Wait till you see the ginormous boo-boo I made later on in this journal.)

Just look at that traffic, with the Arc de Triomphe way down there at the end...

We finally made it around the Arc and on to the Eiffel Tower...

It was so interesting to see the tower up close. The complexity of it is amazing! And I loved the decorative ironwork on the arches...

We walked out onto the Champ de Mars, the expansive green space that stretches away from the tower, and admired the structure from a distance. It's just so impressive and BEAUTIFUL! I wasn't expecting to love it as much as I did. I just had to sketch it!

(I'm working on a blog post that shows how I painted this sketch step-by-step --- stay tuned!)

After all that hard work, it was time for a treat!

Chocolate ice cream was just what I needed to recharge. And look at this adorable ice cream spoon....

We took a leisurely stroll back to our apartment, passing lots of cute shops and pretty buildings along the way. (All those leisurely strolls added up to 6 1/2 miles by the end of the day!)

Children's clothing shop along Avenue de Suffren

Don't you love these tables?

That's my mom on the right - still going strong after six miles of walking!

 I wonder what's behind those curtains...the French door is open, inviting me in.....

Too cute for words....

I snapped a photo of this building and sketched it as we rode along on the top level of the double-decker bus, but if you saw the original picture, you'd be shocked at how much I changed it. How could I resist making the awnings red to match the scooter? :)

We finally made it back to the apartment, unloaded our backpacks, had a glass of wine, then wandered out to find some dinner. We ended up at a Thai restaurant a few blocks away....

While we waited for our meals, we fantasized about the oh-so-chic French couple seated in the window, dreaming up all sorts of scenarios for them...until they each lit up a cigarette. That shattered all our romantic illusions in an instant! (But smoking is so commonplace in France that it shouldn't have surprised us.)

I sketched my dinner...

Any guesses what it was?

As we made our way back to our home-away-from-home, the sky changed from deep blue to a dusky purple. As the lights of the Eiffel Tower switched on, a feeling of great contentment washed over me. It had been a perfect day. I had seen some amazing places, eaten wonderful food, spent time with friends, sketched, walked, shopped, laughed, and did it all without feeling rushed or pressured to see more or do more. Paris will still be there the next time...

Saturday, July 22, 2017

France Sketchbook - Day 2 - Paris

6" x 8", ink & watercolor on 140 lb. Kilimanjaro watercolor paper

On Day 2 of our Paris visit, we were feeling pretty energetic, since we had gotten a good night's sleep and were recovering from the time change. My friend, Karen, who was coming to the workshop in Provence, was in Paris, so she joined us for part of the day. We thought we'd take the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus to our first destination. Sounds like a good idea, right? See how happy and chipper everyone looked as we waited for the bus? The bus that was supposed to run every ten minutes...

Candy, Karen, and my mother, Saundra
the bus that we waited for for 45 minutes. The bus that never came! Trust me, we were not that smiley when we finally called Uber.

But while I was waiting, I pulled out my sketchbook. Thinking I would only have about five minutes to sketch, I dashed off this little drawing of the beautiful building right in front of us, the Hotel des Invalides, which was originally built in the 17th century as a hospital and retirement home for soldiers. It now houses several museums. (I just noticed I need to turn "de" into "des" in my sketch.)

Hotel des Invalides
Our first stop of the day was the Tuileries Gardens. It felt good to be in a green space in the heart of the city.

The Parisians all seemed so relaxed. No one was hustling to get anywhere. They seemed to have all the time in the world to just sit by the water or in a cafe. (You can tell the Parisians from the tourists because they aren't posing for selfies every ten seconds.)

Even the grass-munching goats were mellow....

There was lavender growing in a formal garden...

plus flowers, garden statuary, and an amusement park.

But in this huge park, complete with fountains, moats, terraces, a grand allee, an orangerie, and a carousel, do you know what is almost impossible to find? This....

There was one ladies' room in the entire park! And you had to pay to use it. It sure made us appreciate the fact that there are restrooms available everywhere in the US. It's definitely not that way in Europe.

All that walking around gave us an appetite, so we found a cafe in a nice shady spot and settled in to have some lunch and do a little sketching.

Karen and I sketching at the Tuileries

Here's the scene I drew while I was waiting for my lunch....

and here's my delicious lunch of buckwheat crepes filled with cheese and mushrooms.

I think the leisurely attitude of the French must have been contagious, because we felt no compulsion to rush off to the next must-see tourist spot. We just nibbled at our lunches, sketched, sipped our cappuccinos and enjoyed being in Paris on a beautiful blue-sky day.

(More of  Day 2 tomorrow!)

Monday, July 17, 2017

France Sketchbook - Day 1

Hello out there! It's been so long since I've checked in here that you might have been wondering if I got lost in Paris and never made it home. :) No such luck. (Just kidding, Fred!) I'm back home safe and sound, just catching up on things and taking some time to relax with the family after being away. The trip was wonderful in every way (except for the ungodly heat in Paris), so why don't I just start at the beginning and give you a rundown of what we did, where we went, and who we met along the way? I'll share photographs, along with my sketches. I think it will be interesting for you to see how a sketch of a scene can hold so much more life and energy than a photo.

You can read about my trip preparations and the sketchbook I used for my travel journal in this post. I saved two pages at the beginning of the journal for a title page, and, though I usually wait until I've completed a travel journal to design the title page, I had a firm idea of what I wanted to do for my France sketchbook, so I went ahead and did it this week.

Two-page spread in a 6" x 8" handmade journal filled with bright white Kilimanjaro 140 lb. watercolor paper. The artwork was done with ink and watercolor.

The quote on the left side of this two-page spread is one that speaks to the excitement and anticipation that I always feel when embarking on a journey to a place I've never been before. The lettering is inspired by the work of Susan Branch. If you haven't checked out her blog, you should - she's an American treasure. Subscribe to her email newsletter and her blog for quotes, artwork, recipes, and a glimpse of life on Martha's Vineyard.

But I digress...back to the sketch...
I did the lettering and border with a size 0 Escoda Versatil brush, which worked really well. I've been trying out some different brands of brushes, and I'm liking the Escoda Versatil very much.

For the title page, I wanted to feature some of the things that say "France" to me: wine, a paint brush, the Eiffel Tower, bicycles, figs, cherries, straw hats, lavender, cafes, Euros, fleur-de-lis, macarons, the Arc de Triomphe, baguettes, summer dresses, Brie, olive trees, crepes, croissants, apricots, strawberry jam, sunflowers, the French flag, and the chirpy way that everyone says "Bonjour!" when they greet you in France. 

Click to enlarge and see details of individual sketches

I drew the lettering first with pencil, then laid a piece of tracing paper over the page to draw the little sketches. That made it easy to erase when I wanted to change the size of something or move it around. I eventually filled the entire page, then I used graphite transfer paper to trace the designs onto the watercolor paper in my sketchbook. The images were inked with a Platinum Carbon fountain pen filled with Platinum Carbon black ink, then painted with watercolor. I love how it turned out.

When I'm leaving on a teaching trip, there's a lot of preparation that needs to be done. In addition to all the usual pre-trip stuff at home like weeding the garden or cleaning out the fridge, I have to get everything ready for the workshop. On the day I was leaving for France, I was running around like crazy, trying to finish up a hundred different things, while my husband, Fred, casually packed his bag and headed out the door for a trip to Connecticut. The contrast between the two of us gave me a great idea for a page in my sketchbook.

As I sank into my seat on the Boeing 757 bound for Paris, I breathed a huge sigh of relief. Everything was done - now all I had to do was enjoy! And I finally had the time to start on that page that our preparations had inspired. I started itemizing all the things I had had to take care of before I got on that plane, and I made a separate list for Fred... 

I ran out of space on my page....

but there was plenty of room on Fred's....


We landed in Paris around 9:30 am local time, which was 3:30 am Pennsylvania time. By the time we got to our apartment it was noon, and we were completely exhausted, having been awake for 24 hours. But we quickly discovered that the apartment didn't have air conditioning, so we were better off heading out for some sightseeing than trying to nap. 

No energy for sketching on Day 1, but at least I did some journaling.

The temperatures in Paris that day reached almost 100 degrees, but at least there was a breeze, which made it bearable. We walked up the street to catch the "Hop On Hop Off" bus. It took us on a rambling tour of the city, passing many of the most popular tourist spots, like the Opera House...

the Louvre...

 the Seine...

Notre Dame...

the Arc de Triomphe...

and of course, the Eiffel Tower...

We sat on the top level of the double-decker bus, high above the traffic, and watched the world go by. It was a great way to get a feel for how the city was laid out, and along the way we saw plenty of interesting sights, like gorgeous buildings, inviting cafes, a cute gourmet shop...

Yes, even in Paris, cell phones are ubiquitous

pretty doors and balconies...

and the sex shops along the Moulin Rouge (not something I wanted to take pictures of, or remember!)

We finally made it back to our neighborhood and stopped at a corner grocery for some provisions (and wine!) then took the tiny elevator up to our 8th floor flat. (Doesn't "flat" sound Parisian?) 

My mom felt so claustrophobic in the elevator! :) It was less than three feet wide.

We had French cheese and crackers for dinner (always one of my favorite vacation meals).

Oh, and wine, of course! From France, of course. 

Then, finally, it was time to sleep, but not before gazing out our windows at the Eiffel Tower illuminated against a clear night sky. Hard to believe...we were really in Paris. 

PS - I'll be posting more Paris sketches as I finish them. I filled 54 pages with line drawings, journaling, and partially completed paintings during the ten days I was in France, so I should have plenty to work on over the coming weeks and months. I hope to finish everything before I head to Italy in September. (I'll probably laugh when I read that statement in October!)

PPS - Don't forget about my Greece workshop, October 3-15, 2017. There are still a few spaces open - let's sketch the Greek Isles together!

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